2008 Woodie Awards
Video related to this article is available below.Issue date: 2/19/08 Section: Dining Guide
Delicious variety for a vegetarian dinner
Lindsey Stull
When I mentioned Horizons to a vegetarian acquaintance, he excitedly promised that the restaurant would deliver "the best meal of [my] life." While a strong allegiance to some Little Italy gnocchi forbids me from agreeing entirely, the chefs at Horizons served me, without a doubt, the prettiest meal of my life and assuredly the best vegan one.
The presentation of Horizons' food matches the decor: classy and modern, with just the right kinds of special touches. The leafy fan blades complement the sleek nature-themed wall decorations, and the bright green aguardiente creamed spinach under my deviled oyster mushroom fritters showed off the brown of the 'shrooms and the creamy white of the truffle aioli sauce.
The flavors of the food work together just as well as their colors, although you might want to bring your camera to take that picture before you begin. I recommend the Cuban shepherd's pie, made with seitan (a wheat-based meat substitute) and served in an acorn squash with a thick crust on top. While the dishes may look and taste like gourmet fare, the servings bear no resemblance to the bite-sized offerings at some upscale restaurants - the portions are large and the food hearty. The chefs also deliver a surprisingly varied menu, offering vegetable-based dishes as well as several based on different meat alternatives, including tofu, tempeh and the aforementioned seitan.
Horizons presents a pleasant dining experience overall. The service is timely and helpful, and the dishes, if a bit pricey (entrees range from $17 to $21), show off an inventiveness and class sometimes lacking in vegan food. The only disappointment came in the form of the dairy-free saffron creme brulee, but you have to give them credit for trying.
Best of all, there was no menu-skimming, no asking the server about soup bases and no 'default vegetarian option.' The restaurant caters to vegetarians and vegans, but my omnivorous friend didn't miss the meat, and vegetarians have to delight in the variety and quality of modern meatless cuisine. Horizons, well worth the trek down South Street, serves up tasty, filling fare for all palates.
The presentation of Horizons' food matches the decor: classy and modern, with just the right kinds of special touches. The leafy fan blades complement the sleek nature-themed wall decorations, and the bright green aguardiente creamed spinach under my deviled oyster mushroom fritters showed off the brown of the 'shrooms and the creamy white of the truffle aioli sauce.
The flavors of the food work together just as well as their colors, although you might want to bring your camera to take that picture before you begin. I recommend the Cuban shepherd's pie, made with seitan (a wheat-based meat substitute) and served in an acorn squash with a thick crust on top. While the dishes may look and taste like gourmet fare, the servings bear no resemblance to the bite-sized offerings at some upscale restaurants - the portions are large and the food hearty. The chefs also deliver a surprisingly varied menu, offering vegetable-based dishes as well as several based on different meat alternatives, including tofu, tempeh and the aforementioned seitan.
Horizons presents a pleasant dining experience overall. The service is timely and helpful, and the dishes, if a bit pricey (entrees range from $17 to $21), show off an inventiveness and class sometimes lacking in vegan food. The only disappointment came in the form of the dairy-free saffron creme brulee, but you have to give them credit for trying.
Best of all, there was no menu-skimming, no asking the server about soup bases and no 'default vegetarian option.' The restaurant caters to vegetarians and vegans, but my omnivorous friend didn't miss the meat, and vegetarians have to delight in the variety and quality of modern meatless cuisine. Horizons, well worth the trek down South Street, serves up tasty, filling fare for all palates.
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