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Issue date: 10/31/07 Section: Dining Guide

El Vez Restaurant: El Vez offers cha-cha time, day or night

Anne Dobson

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Upon entering El Vez, one of the first things to catch the eye is a glittering low-rider bicycle slowly rotating above the bar.

The installation, says hostess manager Nicole Bell, epitomizes the "Mexico meets East L.A." theme prevailing in both the ambiance and cuisine of popular restaurateur Steven Starr's ninth dining venture.

Located on the corner of 13th and Sansom streets in Center City, El Vez typically caters to a business crowd during the day, but, according to Bell, the atmosphere changes "when the sun goes down." It's then that colorful fluorescent lights glow over the plush booths, and both the conversation and background music become louder and livelier.

Drinks include signature margaritas in popular flavors such as frozen blood orange and pomegranate ($9), as well as a variety specialty mixes, tequilas and beers.

The menu, originally crafted by well-known Latin American chef Jose Garces, offers traditional Mexican fare with creative twists, and caters to those looking for either a small dish to go with drinks or a larger meal.

Start with the El Vez guacamole, a light, creamy blend of avocado, tomato, onions, jalapenos, cilantro and lime.

A mouth-watering vegetarian option is queso fundido de hongos ($12), a combination of cheese and mushrooms that is perfect for scooping into a soft flour tortilla.

Also worth sampling are the crispy mahi mahi tacos ($11) wrapped in soft tortillas with avocado, red cabbage and a chipotle pepper remoulade.

Small sides, which include grilled corn on the cobb and corn bread, range from $4-12 and compliment most starters and main dishes.

And save room for the signature dessert: a flourless chocolate cake with peanut butter custard, caramelized bananas and vanilla fudge ice cream.

Open since 2003, El Vez has contributed to the turnaround of the surrounding neighborhood, Bell said.

The expansive dining space allows El Vez to easily cater to large groups, including everything from birthday to bachelorette parties, Bell said.
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